Cantabrian Sea anchovy fillets from Getaria
We have always thought that we are very fortunate to have a shop right next to the port and to have a direct relationship with our customers. Being at street level allows us to know first hand the customs, doubts or concerns of our users and, having this privileged information, makes us continue to improve constantly.
Either when you visit our shop in Getaria or even when you take part in the anchovy making workshop, you often ask us many questions and doubts and we have realised that there are many myths surrounding anchovies that are not entirely true. That is why, in this post, we wanted to clear up some of them. If after reading it you have any unanswered questions, we would love to hear from you and we will try to answer them as best as possible!
Here we go!
1. Is it possible to make anchovies with machines?
As far as we know, no. We don’t know any company that works with machines. Our whole process is handmade. We remove the head of the fresh anchovies, one by one, and place them in layers in large barrels of 300 kilos in abundant sea salt. They are then matured at room temperature for 7-8 months. As time passes, the anchovies are cured with the salt and their flavour intensifies.
Once the anchovies have reached their optimum point of maturity, we first give them several baths in water, then we cut off the tail and part of the bones, scrape the skin and separate the loins, removing the central bone. Finally, before packaging, we dry the fish between cloths. Everything by hand. To give you an idea, per person, we make around 400 grams in one hour. That would be this tray.
The work is intensive and so are the production costs. During the production process, we lose 80% of the kilos; in other words, we need 100 kilos of fresh anchovy to make 20 kilos of fillet. We have to bear tremendous losses.
If you want to see the whole anchovy production process, step by step, click on this link.
2. Are all anchovies of the same species?
Unfortunately, many large canneries pack species that come from Tunisia, Morocco or other seas. We only work with the species engraulis encrasicolus and of local origin, from the Cantabrian Sea. Because we know that the anchovy from here, in spring, from April to June, is at its best. Before spawning, they concentrate the fat in the roe and the salt penetrates their backs better. During the return, which begins in August, they accumulate fat in the flesh for the winter and do not cure in the same way. That is why this anchovy is no good for us.
The breed is decisive, just as it is with Iberian pork hams. After all, we are talking about the ham of the sea.
3. Is the big anchovy better? The myth of the double zero
The super-large anchovy fillet deceives the eye; many anchovies are pressed to look bigger and they are just looks, people are seduced by the size but their loins are thin and dry. They have no texture.
It is true that the anchovies we use for salting have to be bigger than the ones we use to eat fresh or to make anchovies; and the reason is that during the maturation process, with the salt, they are much smaller. For this reason, we work with anchovies of 27-30 calibre, which is the number of units in a kilo when fresh. In Cantabria and other regions they use the nomenclature of “00” or “0”, however, in the Basque Country, we are guided by the number of fish per kilo.
So, does the bigger the fish, the better the quality? absolutely not. Much more important than size are texture, cleanliness, saltiness and flavour, which are achieved by selecting the best raw material in the spring, patiently respecting the maturing times and guaranteeing optimum cleanliness of each fillet.
4. How long do anchovies last in good condition after packaging?
They keep well for six months in cold storage. They are semi-preserved and do not gain anything over time. However, with tuna or sardines in olive oil, the opposite is true; they do improve with time.
5. How long do anchovies last once the packaging has been opened?
5. How long do the anchovies last once the packaging has been opened?
If we want to guarantee quality, we recommend consuming them within 3-4 days. In the fridge at home, with the air, they dry out and acquire the aromas of other foods. It is very important to always keep them well covered with oil and in a closed container.
6. Which is better, glass or tin?
Each container has its pros and cons. We use 3 types of packaging:
- Glass: It is the most convenient container so that, once opened, we can close and store it. However, it is not the most convenient for serving the anchovies; taking them out of the tin is something that has to be done with patience, so that the fillets do not break. Another positive point of this packaging is that you can see the quality of the anchovy before you buy it. Just by looking at the colour, you will know if the anchovy you are buying is good or not.
- Tin: this is the lightest, most airtight and resistant packaging. It is perfect for travelling. In addition, all the tins we use are BPA NI free, so you don’t have to worry.
- Tray: this is the most convenient container for plating. It allows us to take them out as they are on the plate. It is not for nothing that we work a lot with caterers. Of course, once opened, if not all the anchovies are consumed, we recommend storing them in a tupperware container, always covering them well with oil.
7. Anchovies, better in olive oil or sunflower oil?
We can use both. Just like the packaging, each type of oil has its pros and cons.
- Olive oil: this allows us to use it once we have plated the anchovies. But our recommendation is to use a mild olive oil, otherwise it will take away the flavour of the anchovies. The disadvantage is that it solidifies with the cold and this makes the glass container look white and we have to wait a few minutes for it to soften before eating the anchovies.
- Sunflower oil: it does not solidify when cold and allows us to plate the anchovies more quickly. This is the main reason why caterers prefer them this way. In this case, our recommendation is to drain the anchovies and add olive oil once they have been plated.
8. Can I eat anchovies during pregnancy?
Yes, it has been proven that the 8-month salt maturation process eliminates all the bacteria that may be present in fresh anchovies (including anisakis). Therefore, there is no need to worry. Eating anchovies during pregnancy is safe.
In the case of anchovies (anchovies marinated in vinegar), health requires us to freeze them. So all the anchovies you find in shops, as long as they have health registration, are frozen.
9. What is anchovy, canned or semi-canned?
Anchovies are always semi-preserved. Traditional preserves, such as tuna or sardines, are heat-treated, which eliminates all the bacteria and allows them to last 4-5 years outside the refrigerator, unopened. Thanks to this heat treatment or sterilisation, they can last all this time without any artificial preservatives.
In the case of anchovies (both in salt and in vinegar) we cannot give them this heat treatment, as it would spoil the product. For this reason, anchovies are considered a semi-preserved product and must always be kept refrigerated.
It is fine to leave the anchovy fillets at room temperature for a few days, as the salt and oil act as preservatives. However, if they are left unrefrigerated for a long time, the maturation process continues and the anchovies become salty very quickly.
10. Anchovies and anchovies, are they the same thing?
Bocarte, boquerón, anchovy… is the same species of fish: engraulis encrasicolus. The difference is the method of processing.
While the term anchovy is used to refer to processing in salt, anchovy is marinated in vinegar.
The term anchovy includes both salted anchovies, packed directly from the barrel, and anchovy fillets, filleted and packed in oil, as all of them are left to mature in salt. In the Basque Country we also call fresh fish anchovies; what is known as “bocarte” in Cantabria and other regions.
Thus, in our product catalogue we differentiate between anchovies processed in salt and anchovies processed in vinegar.
Le terme “anchois” englobe aussi bien les anchois salés, emballés directement dans le tonneau, que les filets d’anchois, découpés en filets et emballés dans l’huile, car ils sont tous laissés à mûrir dans le sel. Au Pays basque, le poisson frais est également appelé anchois ; en Cantabrie et dans d’autres régions, on parle de “bocarte”.
Ainsi, dans notre catalogue de produits, nous distinguons les anchois traités au sel et les anchois traités au vinaigre.